Do not mistake open roads for open arms.
Yes, the Reintegration Act passed. Yes, we wear new clothes, carry papers, pay taxes, buy bentos, get rained on, and get stuck on cramped buses like everyone else. Some people smile. Some ask for our stories. Some even call us neighbors.
But never forget:
Though cities have opened their gates, minds do not always follow.
There are places in this country that are not ready or do not wish to be. They do not welcome reminders—and we are nothing but reminders.
I have, through people sympathetic to our cause, compiled this non-exhaustive list of places that are considered hostile or safe (with caveats).
I know. It's disheartening. But if we are to integrate and make a place for ourselves, then sometimes we need to know when to turn around. Be the bigger person. Do not let anger or pride blind you. You will only prove them right. And frankly, I'm tired of Kishi gloating.
Remember, this is not a surrender.
Absolutely off-limits:
That means you are absolutely and under no circumstances to go there or even be seen in the vicinity. I cannot save you from the fallout, and you will only give me headaches, and you won't like me when I get headaches.
— Hiroshima and Nagasaki:
Let them rebuild in peace without reminders of the war. These cities are war memorials. Sacred grounds.
KANSEN presence—especially of fleets formerly associated with the Pacific theatre—may be seen as symbolic violence. Catholic communities in Nagasaki, in particular, have raised theological and moral objections. Don't try to change their minds.
If you somehow get invited to come, politely decline anyway.
— Okinawa Prefecture:
USCAR-administered. Pacific War brutality is still fresh in the minds of many, and local resentment against both the United States and the Japanese government still runs deeper than the Mariana Trench. The Americans will not offer legal protection, and are unlikely to grant you entry anyway.
— The Jingū
Spiritual linchpin of the nation and seat of the imperial family's ancestral kami. Even Emperors know to tread lightly. Very few are actually allowed to approach to begin with, but this still bears mentioning: your presence equals sacrilege.
— All other shrines designated Beppyō by the Jinja Honchō:
Same reasons as above. Be especially careful in the vicinity of Izumo and Suwa Taisha. The former is an exceptionally important shrine, and the latter represents a tradition that possibly predates the Yamato court.
P.S. Regardless of Beppyō designation, avoid all Jingū, Taisha, Gū, and all ichinomiya. Currently, Fushimi Inari, Hinokuma, Umenomiya, Kamakura, and Izumo Daijingū are examples of former Beppyō shrines. Treat them as if they still are.
P.P.S. Most jinjas, especially in rural areas and quiet neighborhoods, can be visited provided you exercise decorum.
P.P.P.S: Meiji Jingū is also an exception. But mind your manners. You may resent being born as a weapon, but don't pretend you made yourself. The Emperor enshrined there lit the fire. You walk in its light. Act accordingly.
— Yasukuni:
I singled this one out for a reason, and you all know why. Do not visit the shrine. Do not discuss it at all. Mourn your dead in your hearts.
— Ainu territories:
Ainu communities in Hokkaido and parts of Tōhoku are welcoming, perhaps due to a sense of kinship, but be warned: your presence will only attract unwanted attention from the state or fringe actors. For their sake, don't linger. We don't want to endanger an already marginalized people.
— Christian churches:
We don't want theological debates. Some sects, like the Quakers and Jehovah's Witnesses, are staunch proponents of pacifism and will never be able to reconcile their doctrines with your existence. Others, like the Anglicans and some Catholic dioceses, may be more open-minded, but expect to be treated with suspicion in general. Unless necessary, avoid the subject entirely. You may believe in redemption. That doesn't mean others believe you deserve it. On the flip side, a minority of Japanese Christians, especially some converts among ex-military in the 1950s, might personally empathize with KANSEN as fellow "sinners seeking redemption." However, this is more on an individual pastoral level, not a broad acceptance.
— JSDF bases:
Don't give tabloids reason to blow everything out of proportion. We will never be part of any military again, and unless it's for an event that you are invited to, don't bother trying. If you are invited, always make sure a liaison officer accompanies you. Otherwise, if nostalgia is your reason, there are better outlets. Go read books. You will learn more. Or come see me.
— Ultranationalist enclaves:
Certain rural districts in Chūgoku, Tōhoku, and Shikoku, particularly the areas around former Imperial army garrisons and strongholds, have become hotbeds of ultranationalist sentiment. There have been no major incidents so far, and I want it to stay that way.
If a place feels sterile or eerily quiet, and nobody makes eye contact but is clearly watching you—get out immediately.
If you heard old military marches still being played or people using terms specific to wartime propaganda—get out immediately.
If you see too many Rising Sun flags and old imperial insignias—get out immediately.
If you think the local media is too reactionary—get out immediately.
Not off-limits, but discretion advised:
These are places where knowing the proper customs and manners will smooth the road, though they are not the only options. Never wear old uniforms, and if possible, don't travel alone.
— Buddhist temples in general:
Less focus on divinity means they are more open to KANSENs. Many are eager to engage in discussions on spiritualism. Don't join if you don't know what you are doing (Zen koans may sound baffling to laypeople), and don't overstay.
— Kansai:
Kobe
Capital of Hyōgo. A postwar boomtown, though not without some lingering trauma underneath. It's the most cosmopolitan and safe, with several foreign enclaves. You can easily vanish into the urban flow and blend in. And if you're into jazz, this could be your place. It's calm, but never casual.
Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara are not necessarily hostile, but consider the following.
Osaka is vibrant, and people are easy-going, if a bit loud and blunt. However, they are also proud. Don't put on airs—they know how to clap back hard. If you think your life is a joke, you'll fit right in—they love a good laugh, and nothing earns respect faster than knowing how to take one at your own expense. Younger people are more open-minded, and a few are interested in KANSEN. Older residents are more cautious, and you might be stared at. Avoid the Shinsekai. It's a poor, crime-ridden neighborhood. Hell, avoid the bars in general. Dōtombori has many good places to eat, though.
Nara has many historical buildings and religious sites. A few temples and shrines are designated as "National Treasures," and the city's administration is rather protective. Locals are ambivalent. If you must, be extra careful when visiting these places. No touching anything, no leaning on anything. The deer won't judge, but won't defend you, either. And keep your food or anything that looks remotely edible out of their reach. Deer treats are better. Give them those instead.
Kyoto is the most traditional city, and tradition is almost deified. You will not be refused entry. You may not be glared at. But make no mistake: you will be observed. People here are old-fashioned, and while not outwardly hostile, you wouldn't know if they are. Remain respectful. Do not invoke historical affiliation. Praise is likely an insult under ten layers. Say thanks, and not a word more.
Mie
Home of the Jingū and Tsubaki Okamiyashiro (see above). Iga is a friendly town, and despite it being the birthplace of ninjas, don't try to act like one. Akatsuki lives here if you need a place to crash. Yunoyama Onsen near Yokkaichi has been confirmed to be accepting of KANSENs. Admire the Meoto Iwa from a distance. The ama divers in Toba are friendly, but avoid mention of their dwindling numbers.
Wakayama
The most sparse and quiet. Walk carefully—the prefecture is a center of pilgrimage, especially around Mount Kōya.
— Tokyo:
The heart of reintegration. Very safe, very diverse, and the most open to your presence. Reminder that lingering near government buildings, especially the National Diet and the Imperial Palace, is a major no-no.
— Former Kure Naval Arsenal:
For those thinking of going on a pilgrimage there, note that visits are strictly monitored, and the area is off-limits after dark.
— Hokkaido:
Some cities, like Sapporo and Hakodate, have expressed support. However, Hokkaido is still a rural island with many small communities, so keep your eyes open. Note that winters could be especially harsh. Reminder to avoid the Ainu settlements as directed, as well as talks about the Kurils.
— Chūbu:
Niigata
If you read Kawabata, you'd know of the region. If you come, come in winter, and help shovel the snow. They'll warm up to you in no time. (1964) It experienced a devastating earthquake a few months ago.
Toyama
Heavily spiritual. Culturally conservative, meaning they may expect more adherence to traditional social norms (like gender roles, polite speech), but also thrive economically from coastal shipping and recently built dams. Show reverence for the mountains, especially the Tateyama.
Nagano
A center of monastic life and full of hardy survivalists. Show grit, never whine, don't show weakness or overly urban sensitivities, and you'll win them over. Be cautious of the Matsushiro Underground Imperial HQ near Nagano City—locals may still harbor bitter memories of forced labor. Don't approach, don't ask—unless they bring it up first.
Gifu
Heavily traditionalist and has a long history of artisanal craft and sword-making. Accept the sarubobo dolls without question if offered. Always state your intentions plainly and help wherever you can.
Ishikawa
Cultural center. The proud locals will not tolerate pretense. Be humble, and compliment the lacquerware. Trust me, it's earned. It's a test, but not a Kyoto-level test.
Aichi
Home to Toyota and is mostly industrial. If you want to stay here, show them you are a hard worker. People may see you as akin to a car engine. They will be impressed if you are reliable, and wary if you are unpredictable. Note that Nagoya, a center of wartime production, was heavily bombed during the war. Best not to remind them of old wounds. Focus on the collaborative spirit of the present and the culture.
Shizuoka
Home to many ex-naval officers. Izu Peninsula (explanations below) should be your destination. The rest may show openness due to the long US presence, but there is also a sense of fatigue. If you know history, bring up the Tokugawa.
— Chūgoku:
Okayama
A crossroads. Kurashiki, a tourist town, is welcoming, but Okayama City is stiff. Momotarō is more than just a cute legend here—don't treat it lightly, or worse, dismiss it. Stoicism and reliability are prized more than anything else.
Shimane
Home to Izumo Taisha (see above). A spiritual heartland. Coastal towns like Matsue and Hamada are welcoming to non-disruptive visitors. Avoid politics, especially around land reform or Shintō practices. The region is still touchy about Meiji-era changes and any perceived insults to its ancient traditions.
Yamaguchi
Former seat of the Chōshū Domain (home of revolutionaries, militarists, and post-Meiji power brokers). Prideful, resents those who question their legacy. Shimonoseki, the port city, is a mix of maritime modernity and quiet ultra-conservatism (and lots of fugu. For the daring, the rewards are great, but even if you aren't dead, the price is still great). Never forgets who won and who lost. They will be civil, as long as you keep the past unsaid. Yamaguchi City and Ube are populated by young workers tired of division.
— Kyushu:
Sasebo and the surrounding areas are safe. American presence causes some tension, but it also helps create a more tolerant atmosphere. Again, stay there and avoid the rest of the Nagasaki prefecture.
Kagoshima
Historical loyalty to former domains may influence perception. You may represent the central government to them, but the sons of Satsuma may still remember the old enemies. Avoid prolonged stays or late-night movements. Plan ahead. The express might only get you halfway. The rest is tunnels, tea breaks, and a very bumpy bus ride.
Fukuoka City
The closest thing to a modern cosmopolis on the island.
University presence, international ports, and urban youth culture make it receptive to new ideas—and curious strangers.
Some military nostalgia, especially among older residents and industrialists, many of whom made fortunes off wartime production, may remain.
(1963) Kitakyūshū is another rising urban center, thanks to steelmaking. Avoid industrial zones, unless you like soot. But accept soot as a fact of life anyway.
Kumamoto
Similar to Kagoshima. They're not hostile as much as uneasy, though. They won't kick you out. But they might not speak to you either. And you'll never know what they're thinking. If the fish tastes funny in Minamata, leave it.
Miyazaki
Rural and beautiful, it has strong Shintō roots. People revere nature, the spirits, and tradition. Some communities may see you as a walking taboo.
Ōita and Saga
Ōita has a notable Christian minority. Be mindful. Saga is quiet, even stoic—it was an old reformist stronghold. Some families may harbor Meiji-era resentment or loyalty, depending on how they see the current government. You may be welcomed politely and then completely ignored.
— Shikoku
Much of this island is still rural, with patchy infrastructure. Don't expect your bus to come back. It's a land of ascetics and pilgrimage. They may not consider you strange right away. Don't treat their traditions as strange in return.
Tokushima
The starting point for the 88-Temple Pilgrimage. Strong Buddhist influence, with particular reverence for Kōbō Daishi. If you can do calligraphy well, it will earn you goodwill. If you want to, you don't need to walk all 88 temples. But walk one with care. Wear white. Bow properly.
Kagawa
Known for sanuki udon. Its port cities are relaxed, and the prefecture is urban for Shikoku standards. Outside the cities, people are more tight-knit and cautious. If someone invites you to eat, eat until full, and never refuse seconds.
Ehime
Has a strong maritime culture and is proud of its sailors and ferry routes. There are veterans of naval operations and China expeditions. Never mention China, and don't correct old men who say they "kept the seas clean." Home to Dōgo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle. Treat with respect.
Kochi
Remote and rugged. Formerly the Tosa Domain. If you know your Sakamoto Ryoma or Bakumatsu history, flaunt it. They love the man. People are blunt like Osakans and value honesty over tact. Never lie, because they are not as forgiving.
— Tōhoku
By "Y.T."
(I noticed this rather glaring omission of Tōhoku and took the liberty of preparing this. Mikasa-dono told me that no KANSEN would likely find the region attractive, but it never hurts to be prepared.)
Harsh place, rugged, and proud. Not inherently cruel, but may not always be welcoming and slow to thaw. Agrarian and lagging behind in everything compared to the rest of Honshū. The region is poor and has lost many sons to the war. Those who return are often never the same. The general rule here is to never enter any hamlets without signs, never stay the night at anyone's home, and never discuss the war, no matter the context.
Many young people have left for better opportunities elsewhere. If you can empathize with those left behind or feeling alienated, do. They will respond well. Keep in mind that some may speak to you as if you were someone else. They are shell-shocked veterans. Answer softly.
Superstition is not a novelty here. It's the only way to explain the world for many. You are not just foreign. You are strange. If you appear too perfect, too silent, too beautiful, they may not believe you're human. In some places, that may be good. In others…less so. Watch the signs. Carry salt. Carry sweets. Accept tea if offered. Never refuse incense or prayer, even if you don't understand the language.
Underdeveloped infrastructure carries a real risk of stranding travelers. Roads can vanish in the rain, and trains might be delayed by landslides. I suggest you let Mikasa know your travel plans so your friends will know where to start looking if things go sideways.
Western Aomori has a distinct dialect, so try not to offend people by not understanding or pretending otherwise. Careful around Mutsu due to the association with the former Ōminato Guard District. They're proud of their apples, their snow, and their festivals. The Nebuta Matsuri is loud, brilliant, and sacred. Don't mock the floats or call them silly. If you're invited to help, it's a great honor. Work hard. Wear the outfit. Don't complain about the drums.
Hachinohe has a port, a navy base, and eyes that remember things. Best keep your papers ready. Ask no questions. Answer with care.
Iwate is sparser than you think. Mountain passes can disappear in winter. The coastline is rugged and inward-looking. If you go to Miyako or Rikuzentakata, bring firewood or rice as a gift. It will say more than your papers. In Tōno, you are walking through folktale country. Expect stories. Expect silence. Expect sudden kindness. If a child offers you a wooden charm or a fox mask, take it.
You may be treated like a yōkai. This is not always bad. Just don't break character.
Sendai in Miyagi is the closest to a modern city in the prefecture, and is relatively safe. You won't stick out like a sore thumb. The further inland you go, the less your papers mean something. Locals may ask pointed questions, so answer plainly. Show them you are no threat. Better yet, offer help, even if only to chop firewood.
Akita is blunt. Isolated, with a strong sense of local pride. You will not be coddled. Many towns have their own dialects, customs, and spiritual obligations. The Namahage tradition may feel strange. Don't laugh. And don't interfere. If they think you are one of the oni, you may be asked to join. Take that as a compliment. Or a warning.
Avoid making jokes about cold weather unless you want to be mocked for softness. Marginalized burakumin may see you as kin.
Yamagata is not as cold as Akita. Deep valleys, hot springs, and suspicion. People here are used to their own kind. Tourists are rare, and welcomed only if quiet. The Shōnai region is known for deep spirituality and an isolationist past. Don't enter temples uninvited. Don't ask about ancestors. If you're served pickled vegetables, eat them all.
Local hospitality is real, but they will not invite you twice. Accept the first time, or not at all.
Fukushima has a borderland mindset. Northern areas feel like Tōhoku. Southern districts lean closer to Kantō. There's tension between old ways and new ambitions. It's not impolite—it's conflicted.
People here remember samurai domains. They also remember B-29s and the long nights spent waiting for the all-clear. If someone tells you they've "lost too much already," do not ask them to explain.
Avoid Sōma during the Obon festival. They honor their dead loudly, and outsiders don't always understand the rituals. Show respect. If you can't, stay away.
Safe zones:
Because not all roads are closed, and even closed roads may not always be dangerous.
— Capital Region/Kantō:
Apart from the note on Tokyo above, this is your best bet. Cosmopolitan and accepting, the people here are more likely to know and understand who we are.
(1964) Never thought I would finally add anything here, but there's a cozy place in Asakusa run by one of us. She will serve you no matter who you are, the food is delicious, and the drinks are great. If you somehow crave Coca-Cola, just ask. I haven't tried it myself, but you will always take my word for it, won't you?
— Izu Peninsula:
Historically removed, culturally independent. Locals are unlikely to be prejudiced. Perfect for a getaway—or settling down. The beaches and onsens are lovely, too. Nagato runs a minshuku in Shimoda. She tends to refuse payment from KANSENs. Insist on paying, unless you are really that short on cash.
— Shiga
A picturesque region surrounded by nature, located between Tokyo and Kyoto. A place not weighed down by war, and a choice getaway from the hustle and bustle of big cities for many. The local culture is centered around the revered Lake Biwa. Respect the water, respect nature, and you'll be fine. Ōmihachiman and Hikone are exceptionally scenic and welcoming. Hikone is the former seat of the Ii Clan. You can freely take part in samurai re-enactments.
— Tottori:
The least populated prefecture in Japan. Its population is aging, and people are generally welcoming. The tourism industry is strong, and they are not afraid of the unknown. Come and make it lively. One thing: Don't disappoint them by leaving abruptly. If you come "to make it lively," know that leaving a small community can hit them hard emotionally. So if Tottori is a temporary hideaway for you, manage their expectations. Otherwise, they might be heartbroken or think it was something they did. This is just the nature of tight communities.
Addendum: Wherever you are, be mindful of invitations to speaking engagements or interviews. Vet the person who made the invitation and let me know. If you are unsure or cannot be bothered to check, refuse.
Remember, loaded questions are as nasty as being blindsided by an enemy ambush.
"Mikasa and the KANSENs, I understand your frustrations, and I acknowledge that reintegration does not come without indignities. You all bear scars, but you must hide them behind a smile. Behind your silence. I know this is unfair.
But I must ask you to consider what we are trying to build. Peace through reconciliation. Through forgetting. One forged not in treaties, but on the dinner tables, or quiet walks down the street.
Japan cannot move forward while looking back into the mirror of its past. Learning by occasional glances, yes, but not staring.
Some of you are that mirror, though no fault of your own.
I do not say this to justify the coldness, the injustice you may encounter—but to explain it. To prepare you.
The economy is our ark. It is how we weather this storm. If the price of national healing is selective blindness, then that is the price we pay—for now.
I ask only this: bear with us. Not forever. Just long enough for the next generation to forget why they were afraid of you." — S.E.
"Don't let all this scare you too much. There's kindness out there, too, even if it doesn't wear a sign. I've seen it. Just keep your head up and your haori tidy." —J.H.
Yes, this list is still being intermittently updated. Some things haven't changed, and those that have only made room for more.
But you cannot say they will remain the same. Keep going, and remember, as the saying goes, "On the road, a companion; in life, compassion" — Mikasa